Following on from the last post, ComTexeStarter has successfully built an 1000-HDC and used it to flash to v3.01.
This picture sums it up very neatly:
I’d be very interested to hear from anyone else who tries this.
Success with 1000-HDC
Published
Universal Discovery Methodology 
I will be making one shortly having found this 🙂
Managed to connect over to the Elite 48 using both the COM and the TTL cable I bought from ebay.
Now I’m looking to flash the latest firmware before starting with the setup.
Anyone know what type cable I need to get to fit the Programming Port?
Thanks
Julian
Great!
You now have a choice – either you buy the programming PCB (as I did – see other posts) or else you can build an equivalent with resistors and a switch as per the post above. The actual cable on the programming port is a standard IDC header cable, but you could probably attach directly to the pins if you are careful.
The programming PCB is easier, but it is more expensive
I have the original flasher but home made ft232 USB cable. My flash fails at 99%. Does anybody knows why. I’ve tried many times. My first flash failed at 80%. Can that have any impact on why it won’t work now? It stops at 0-1 seconds left.
Have you tried using a different computer? I had problems initially but using a different machine with a clean install of the utility worked. Also, are you sure you are using the correct image? There are loads to choose from and I had to check carefully to find the correct one.
The first computer failed at anywhere between 5-85% and never completed. The other machine I tried reaches always 99.9% and then fails. I have a texecom Premiere elite 48-w and select p48 but u select a different language pack. I doubt the language pack does any difference.
Right, OK. I wonder if it is something to do with the previous failed attempts. I doubt that it is the cable, as if it was faulty it wouldn’t work at all and anyway all these cables are exactly the same. Have you tried defaulting the panel (holding down the ‘load defaults’ button when applying power)? I think you are supposed to do this anyway as part of the upgrade process and it might clear out any half-finished flashes. You could try the upgrade against the default panel and then restore settings if it works.
Thanks for your answers mate.
I tried defaulting but it’s not working. The heartbeat led is off.
Quick question. Do I still only connect TX, RX and gnd and leave the +(?) from the USB board?
Yes, ignore the + as it is I think intended to power the serial programming cable and not needed for USB
Gentlemen
I fixed the problem by getting the original Texecom USB and now my panel is live again which feels great.
I don’t recommend anyone to flash their panel without the original USB cable.
I also do know there are loads of fake FT232 chipsets out there and i guess mine were fake and very bad quality.
=)
Glad you got everything sorted out. As you say it does seem difficult to avoid the fake chips these days, although it does sound like you were unlucky.
I hope this won’t put you off experimenting!
Hi, is there a step by step build guide for the flash interface? Am I right in thinking it is only some resistors, a switch, some wire and of course the usb cable?
Hi, no unfortunately I don’t have a build guide… this is mostly because I bought the real interface and we deduced the wiring afterwards. However, you are right in that it is really just a few resistors and a switch. All of the other stuff on the board is redundant and I think relates to the old non-USB serial flash cable instead.
If you want to have a go at a guide (or even send me some pics as you go along) I’d be glad to post it up
Hi, I just thought I’d let you know I managed to flash my panel to the latest (v5) firmware using a £3 FTDI cable, and a homemade flasher PCB thanks to the wiring diagram you provided. Big big thank you!
That’s great, thanks for letting me know! The firmware flashing world is on the change slightly with the recent announcement about flashing from the cloud, but this is only going to be available to professionals. It’s great that they are continuing to support and upgrade the panels though.
I’m planning on building my own Flasher but have started by connecting my USB to TTL cable to Com 1. When I run the Wintex software the Program option is disabled. Is this caused by an incompatible cable or do I need to enable some option in Wintex. I have set PC-Com to the correct comms port number under Setup.
Sorry, got it. I needed to create an Account in Wintex. Now to try to get the cable working!
I have discovered that it is possible to use Wintex to communicate with the control panel using a Silicon Labs CP210x USB to UART Bridge. I had one of these lying around that I had purchased from the Open Energy Monitor Project so decided to give it try. I’m running Windows 10 with Silicon Labs driver v10.1.4.
I will provide an update when I have built and tested a flashing interface.
Thanks. There is an issue in that whilst you can use basically any usb UART to communicate using Winter, I think the flashing software will only recognise an FTDI232 which is what is in the official Texecom cable
Yes, you are correct the CP210x cable would not work with the flashing software, I had to borrow a FTDI cable from work for this. I did use my own flashing board, built from the circuit diagram above. Thank you, J
Do you know if the official cable uses 3.3 or 5 volt TTL levels?
There’s a bunch of modules now that can do either with a jumper.
I’m pretty sure it’s 5V, I had similar modules and this is what I used.
Looking forward to trying this as my panel is still on 2.11. I’m more the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it type” :). Still not sure there is much to gain if I update to version 5. I use a comIP module and am happy with the functionality I have, the old texecom android app has served me well even though it’s a little clunky.
I need to get my hands on 10pin IDC ribbon cable and connector then I’m good to go. I already have a FTDI Board from China with a FR232RL chip on it. Judging from from various comments on this site I think this should be ok. Will feedback and let you know how I get on.
This all sounds good. I’d definitely encourage you to take the plunge, there are some nice extra features… and come on, 5 is better than 2.11 isn’t it 🙂
Incidentally I am sorry for the long hiatus on this blog. It isn’t dead, but life has taken over for a while. I still have a big box of Texecom goodies to report on, so I will be starting again soon!
Hi James, I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind helping me build my own 1000-HDC, I can’t seem to wrap my head around the diagram above for some reason!
my email is ahsan.ali.480@gmail.com
I have all the components, just a little apprehensive to build it unless I have it completely clear in my head!
Sure thing, I’ll email you directly
Hi Ashan, did you have any luck making your own 1000-HDC? Like you I am struggling to make head or tail of the circuit diagram for some reason!
I want to upgrade the firmware but would rather not have to pay for a flasher and COMUSB if it can be avoided!
Chris
I’ve just made up a flasher interface on Veroboard with recycled components! Used it to flash from V5.0 to V5.2, worked like a charm. Using a UART pcb from fleabay for about a tenner and an oldish laptop with Windows 7. Also use the UART for programming fire alarms, my main occupation, just make up different pinout leads from the UART pcb to suit the manufacturer. This has saved me a small fotune in the Texe parts and fire alarm leads, they’re just as bad as the security business for prices! Thanks for the info.
That’s good to hear, thanks for letting me know. I was really surprised when I started on this journey how generic everything was, I assumed they’d all use encrypted hardware etc but not a bit of it. Reminds me, I need to get mine upgraded again. Something to do in the lockdown!
The picture of the underside of the board is flipped vertically, which threw me to begin with. I made my own board from the diagram, and managed to successfully flash a Premier Elite 64 from v4.0 to v5.0. Thanks for the info, I’m amazed these resistors and switches are not on the board by default, so that all you need it the com cable. But at £20 for the USB cable and £40 for the programming board, it’s a license to print money. Cost me £3.50 for a compatible FTDI adapter from Amazon and some parts out of my electronics box, job done!
Thank you very much for the time and effort you put into this. Still helping people to this day! Managed to get my hands on a premier elite 48 for £30 so paying double for a cable/ board would have hurt! I implemented your design above in the absolute jankiest and most convoluted way using WAGOs, dupont wires, button and resistors from an electronics kit and a switch from a broken kettle along with an FTDI cable. No soldering required and worked first attempt! I learned a lot from doing this including reading schematics. To others attempting this look at previous posts on this topic on the blog to see a clearer schematic diagram and just ignore everything in the red box. Thanks again. J
Fantastic – thanks for getting in touch! These days I’m not messing with the alarm so much as everything ‘just works’, and also in the interim Texecom have got a cloud based offering which finally allows OTA updates. You do have to pay but it’s not very expensive. Still that’s overkill for most people and the 1000-HDC still works perfectly well. Always fun to have a bit of a hack going on too!